Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by SARGE, Aug 5, 2017.
allowing cedar to grey naturally conceals the streaks...
I've heard of people spraying a new fence with baking soda to lighten the color up. Doesn't make sense.
It has some bleaching abilities and it is white.
they bought red cedar to bleach it white??? they could've just bought white cedar
All wood gets dark but red looks nicer if maintained. It is so easy to spray Thompson's or (if available) wood preservative but most people just do not do it once a year as required.
Hard to beat red cedar in fencing and worth preserving best you can.
I love it ! Been a week beginning with a pic of a brake rotor, moved on to aluminum cylinder heads and screws, different types of metals, marine metals and now on cedar fences and how to keep them red or stained white. I love this place. As an aside, my little brother finished his brake job last Sunday, lol.
I recently fixed a sealed water heater with a roofing nail. But that is another story.
Well, we all gotta hear that one...
There is a part (discontinued and no replacement part) that holds down a plate that lets the air in from the bottom. It breaks and shuts off the intake air.
Makes it look like the thermocouple failed. Once replaced it looks like the gas shutoff valve failed.
Nope - replaced them and the gas shut off. But it was not the gas but there was no air.
Some genius designed a clamp that would break and shut off the air. About 1 inch of glass composite. It failed when I sprayed the area with ant spray.
It was supposed to fail when bad gasses built up.
I replaced it with a nail to hold the plate open and installed a smoke alarm with a carbon monoxide detector.
Now I have hot water instead of a $1000 bill.
I like my 50gal heater - never runs out no matter how long I shower.
As David said,
Be careful using Stainless in "Aluminum" cylinder heads. This has heat cycles and constant moisture issues and using stainless in aluminum cylinder heads is a big no no The stainless will gall and seize faster than regular steel. In boats on salt water it may be different but autos its totally bad.... unless you like drilling out busted off stainless bolts.
I never said in aluminum heads. I know little about automotive stuff, just about boats and marine related stuff. Stainless is actually a softer metal than automotive grade bolts. And yeah, stainless will seize up quite easily.
I have had stainless steel bolts seize into stainless steel nuts so badly that even an impact wrench would not remove it. I had to remove it with a cutting wheel.
A mild acid will put wood back to its original color, usually diluted out phosphoric acid. A mild base will "bleach" it....make it whiter. Baking soda is a base.
are you positive, look at post #22
Yeah I'm sure. YOU Need to read it again. I never said threading a stainless steel bolt into an aluminum cylinder head. I did discuss threading stainless into other aluminum things, which I have plenty of times, but not an aluminum cylinder head.
Go ahead and interpret it however you wish. You must also read minds.